Haisi tsika imwe chete yemazinga akasiyana ekuda kwevatengi, yakasiyana-siyana inobatsira yeganda chigadzirwa sarudzo yakapararira, marudzi akasiyana-siyana.
Maererano nekwakabva zvinhu zveganda, ese ari maviri basa rekupokana-kupeta kwecortical ukobvu, simba rakakwirira, dehwe remombe rakanaka, ivaiwo nechiedza chakapfava, hwakadzama zvinhu pamusoro zvakajeka, dehwe remakwai rakanaka uye rakanaka, nguruve yeganda uye hutano hwakanaka uye mitengo yemakwikwi.
Classification nekushandisa tanning zvinhu, ese ari maviri masimbi asingawanzo kuita sealuminium tanning, chrome yakatsvuka dehwe rinogadzira, kupiswa kwematehwe, mafuta ekupisa uye chirimwa, uyewo zvakasiyana-siyana kuonana tanning;
Chigadzirwa cheganda kuchengetedza uye kugadzirisa, kazhinji nekuisa marudzi ese ematehwe, kutaridzika kweganda rinowanzo kukamurwa kuita nappa dehwe, suede, nubuck dehwe, mvere imwe rotary mafuta edehwe, dehwe, etc. Zvinoenderana nemhando dzakasiyana dzekushongedza dzakashandiswa, uye kupatsanura nappa dehwe aniline dehwe, hafu yeganda uye pigments ye aniline dehwe.
Zvino, ngatikurukurei zvimwe zvakatanhamara zvemhando dzakasiyana dzematehwe.
Dehwe remombe rinoratidza:
Dehwe remombe rine dehwe remombe, yak dehwe uye nyati dehwe.
Mombe dehwe zviyo zvakanaka, cortical ukobvu, high intensity, kusimba uye elasticity zviri nani zvakare, saka kunaka kwayo, yakasununguka uye mushure mekushandisa. Dehwe remombe rakatanga kushandiswa kugadzira zvipfeko, shangu, mabhegi uye bhora rakapera chigadzirwa.
Yak dehwe tsanga pane dehwe remombe irombo zvishoma, inoshanda uye shandisa zvimwe zviri padyo nematehwe emombe.
Nyati dehwe rinotaridzika kushata, coarse fiber yakasununguka, simba rakaderera zvishoma pane dehwe remombe, rimwe basa uye mhou dehwe. Yekutanga inoshandiswa mukugadzira sofa yematehwe enyati, mabhegi, inowanzoshandiswa pakugadzira shangu dzematehwe.
Maitiro eganda renguruve:
Dehwe renguruve rakasiyana neremombe, dehwe remakwai rakakura, tafura yepuraimari ikozvino zviyo zvakashata, fiber, zvishoma kuzara uye elastic. Asi kusimba kwedehwe renguruve nemhou, pedyo kupfuura dehwe ramakwai rine simba kwazvo, saka nekushandisa zvigadzirwa zvayo kwenguva yakareba, bonde remurombo asi rakanaka.
Nguruve yeganda inogona kushandiswa mumhando dzose dzekugadzirwa kwematehwe.
Makwai ematehwe:
Dehwe regwai rakakamurwa kuita dehwe rembudzi neregwai.
Detailed yakanaka mbudzi dehwe tsanga, nyoro basa rakanaka, Asi kutsanya kwayo kunopfuura matehwe emombe. Zvigadzirwa zvematehwe embudzi zvinoyevedza uye zvakanaka, asi kuonekwa kukakavara kuramba, nekushandisa general. Mbudzi yakatanga kushandiswa mumhando yepamusoro shangu dzechikadzi dzematehwe, zvipfeko, magurovhosi eganda, kugadzirwa kwevakadzi mahandbag, etc.
Dehwe remakwai rakapfava kupfuura mbudzi basa rakanaka kwazvo, asi kutsanya kwacho kuduku pane dehwe rembudzi. Zvigadzirwa zvematehwe emakwai zvine zvakawanda uye zvakanyanya kunaka uye zvakasununguka kupfeka, asi basa racho harina kunaka. Dehwe remakwai rakatanga kushandiswa mukugadzira zvipfeko, magirovhosi, kune zvakare anoshandiswa mukugadzirwa kwepamusoro-giredhi shangu dzematehwe uye soft package.
Chimiro cheganda rakazara rezviyo:
Dehwe rezviyo rakazara nderekunongedza kuchengetedza uye kushandisa ekutanga matehwe emhuka sematehwe (kukura kweMAO side), inonziwo positive leather. Chimiro cheganda chezviyo chakakwana pasina kuvhara uye kushandiswa kwakananga, asi yakawanda ndeyekushongedza iyo yekupedzisa machining.
Dehwe rezviyo rakazara rinoda hurema hushoma hwepamusoro-giredhi zvinhu, uye zvinodiwa zvekugadzirisa zvakakwirira zvakare, saka iyo yakazara zviyo dehwe ndeyepamusoro-giredhi dehwe. Nekuti iyo zvinhu intact ganda kutaridzika kunoenderana nedehwe, kutsanya kwayo kushanda zvakanaka. Kazhinji kutaura, kutaridzika kwematehwe ezviyo akazara pasina kupfekedza kana kupfekedza jira rakaonda kwazvo, saka namatira kune kupfava kweganda uye kupenya kwakanaka. Shandisa zviyo zvechokwadi zvedehwe kuratidza mamiriro echisikigo, kuita kuti ive yakasununguka uye yakanaka.
Zviyo zvakazara madhayi ane chinangwa mumutauro wavo akeldama, saka iyo indasitiri inowanzo dhayi seyekutanga ruvara coating agent yezere zviyo dehwe kudaidza aniline dehwe. (kana aniline yakazara dehwe). Iyi mhando yematehwe ekudhaya kufanana, kujeka kwezviyo, usashandise chero ine mhedzisiro yekuvanza iyo firimu-inogadzira zvinhu zvekupfeka, ganda pamusoro pezviyo zvakachengetedzwa zvachose pasina kuvanza. Ingori yeganda rakatetepa kwazvo mushure mekupelisha isina ruvara inovheneka membrane, inogona kuona zvakanyanya ganda rako rezviyo.
Yese yakazara zviyo dehwe rinoshandiswa mune yepamusoro-giredhi zvigadzirwa zvematehwe. Kuchenesa nekugadzirisa apo rudzi urwu rwezvigadzirwa zvematehwe, teerera kunamatira kuhunhu hwayo uye kunzwa.
Semi aniline dehwe:
Izvo zvinhu zverudzi urwu rwematehwe zviyo zvematehwe zvine humwe hurema husina kudzika, kuvanza kuremara asiwo kuchengetedza zviyo zvechisikigo zvedehwe, sarudza pigment shoma uye anonamira kuumbwa uye dhayi dehwe rechiedza pfapfaidzo pendi, iyo yakagadzirwa ine yakaonda yakanyanyisa yehafu yakavanzwa layer, ita kuti zviyo zvedehwe zvisaonekwe.
Dehwe rakakwenenzverwa:
Kubatazve ganda ndiko kutaridzika kwepakutanga, zvimwe kana zvese bvisa matehwe emhuka pamusoro shandisa kune artificial membrane pressure yezviyo dehwe.
Embryo yematehwe zviyo zvakanyanya kuremara, – ndizvo, chigamba uye nzvimbo yekukuya inogadziriswa mushure mekubvisa mamwe kana ese ekutanga ematehwe emhuka, zvino zviri pamusoro shandisa kune artificial membrane kana sarudza mavara wedzera adhesive kuumbwa kuchaita dehwe pamusoro pekuvhara zvachose, iyo yakaita tsanga yenhema mushure mekuita ironing embossing. Nokuti chimiro chepakutanga chedehwe chakarega kuvapo, uye chizvarwa chekugadzira chakaonda firimu kana kupfeka, uye nekudaro anodana dehwe kukwenenzverwa pamusoro. Zvinoenderana nehuremu hwedhigirii rekugayira nzvimbo, kukwenenzvera, kukwenenzvera nedehwe repamusoro rakakamurwa kuita chiedza, kukwenenzvera kunorema uye pamusoro peganda retouching, musoro layer pamusoro peganda, kukwenenzvera uye pamusoro pauriri hwechipiri dehwe, etc.
Zvinonzi head layer uye kupatsanurwa ganda, zvinoreva dehwe riri mushishi, ndiko kukora kweganda remhuka, sedehwe remombe, bhiza dehwe, pigskin, etc., kupatsanurwa kuita zvidimbu zvakawanda nemuchina wekutsemura, kuitira kuwana ukobvu uye inogona kuitwa yakawanda yakawanda yematehwe. Matehwe emhuka ane mvere chikamu chekutanga chedehwe, uye pasi pemupendero wekutanga unonzi progressive split dehwe, matatu akaturikidzana ematehwe, etc.
Kudzorera kutaridzika kweganda rekugadzira membrane, huzhinji huri mumarudzi ose ematehwe emakemikari zvinhu (zvakasiyana-siyana zvakashata zvepigment uye zvikumbiro zvinonamira) yakagadzirwa kupedza slurry, mushure mekudzokorora kupedzisa uye nekuganhurira mamwe mamaki, saka, dehwe uye dhayi dehwe kukwenenzvera pamusoro. Uyewo vamwe retouching dehwe iri kufamba hurongwa mberi zvakanaka kemikari firimu pamusoro dehwe chitarisiko, rudzi urwu rwedehwe runonziwo firimu rinofamba reganda kana firimu rematehwe.
Retouching dehwe nekuda kwekuremara uye kumwe kubhadharwa mune zvishoma zvinhu ganda rinotaridzika kuremara, zvichida nekuda kwekuita kwekugadzirisa nzira kune dehwe, dehwe. Iri ganda rakakwana uye rakazara zviyo ganda, kukanganisa kwayo kukuru ndiko kusiyana kwemhute yemvura permeability, ichiteverwa nekutsanya kwakaderera. Izvi zvekutanga nekuti chimiro chedehwe chepakutanga chanyangarika, uye chizvarwa chekugadzira chakaonda firimu kana kupfeka, kunyanya kukotama kuramba uye kurwisa-kuchembera mabasa zvakaderedzwa zvakanyanya. Pamusoro pe, kushandiswa kwekukwenenzverwa nematehwe epamusoro aive mashoma pane akazara zviyo dehwe. Asi iyo inopenya iganda rekugadzira nekuda kwekutaridzika kwayo, basa rekudzivirira mvura riri nani pane iro rematehwe akazara zviyo, zvakanyanya kuchenesa uye kugadzirisa.
Retouching dehwe rematehwe (pendi) kutanga kushandiswa shangu, mabhegi, mabhandi, chikwama, bhora zvinhu zvakadai sekugadzira.
Zvekutangira nhanho yepigment dehwe, kuwedzera rudzi rwekugadzira uye ruvara, wedzera pendi yakaisvonaka, dehwe, sarudza embossing muchina kana gorosi muchina, kune yakakosha kuraswa kwedehwe, pamusoro pedehwe rinoburitsa mavara akanaka kana kuti zviyo, rudzi urwu rwe pigment yeganda zita rakanamirwa dehwe kana kukwesha zviyo dehwe.
Mukupfeka yunifomu, ruvara rwuri pazasi penheyo isina kudzika, bhurasho kana kupfapfaidza musiyano mukuru, ruvara rwakasviba (zvakadai serima rakasvibira kana dema) color, inogona kuva homogeneous, zvakare inogona kunge isina kuenzana, zvekuti coating yakawana inonzi “antique effect”, rudzi urwu rwe pigment dehwe rinodaidza archaize dehwe kana kaviri ruvara ganda.
Iyo suede inoratidzira:
Suede inoreva kutaridzika kweganda rakagadzirwa nemvere dzemakwai. Nokuti shandisa chamois leather zvibereko vari suede, naizvozvo, inowanzozivikanwa se suede (akarevesa ganda remhembwe), zvino mombe, hwai, nguruve zvese zvinogona kushandiswa kugadzira suede. Shandisa dehwe (divi rine mvere) neiyo yakanaka inonzi suede yakagadzirwa nematehwe, nedehwe rine pamusoro (nyama) pachigayo chakagadzirwa nedehwe, inonzi velvet (kunonziwo kugaya), kushandisa ganda rechipiri reganda rakagadzirwa rinonzi layer suede dehwe.
Nekuti hapana firimu suede dehwe makemikari coating layer, iyo ventilation function yakanaka kwazvo, kupfava kunoshandurwawo zvakanyanya, asi basa rayo rekusapinda mvura, guruva uye kugadzirisa kwave kushoma, kwete pamusoro pezviyo is suede fastness kuva yakaderera.
Yakagadzirwa ne suede zvigadzirwa zvematehwe, shandisa zvakasununguka, basa rakachena rakanaka, asi suede dehwe iri panjodzi yekusvibiswa uye yakaoma kuchenesa, kuchengetedza nekuchengetedza.
Rotary maitiro ekubatanidzwa (anonziwo fur) dehwe:
Izvi zvakanyanya semucheka wembatya yedehwe mumutauro wavo akeldama, ichava nguo ine mvere padehwe rimwe chete uye ichanamatira kumakushe echisikigo, rutivi rwenyama pamusoro penguo, mushure mekudhaya, sarudza usahwande (kana kuvanza) basa rekupedzisa zvinhu zvechiedza ita basa ofing, kana kusarudza yakakosha “chiedza” kuraswa uye ikozvino resin coating, ita kuti iratidze maitiro akasiyana uye maitiro. Asi kamwe pamusoro achikuya kurasikirwa (zvakadai segokora redehwe, cuff, muromo, mutsipa, etc), rudzi urwu rweganda chigadzirwa kupora zvakanyanya hazvisi nyore.
Mafuta ematehwe maficha:
Mafuta ematehwe, ndiko kusarudza mafuta ekupisa mafuta ematehwe. Sarudza zvinhu zvematehwe ekupisa mafuta, yakanyanya kujeka uye yakapfava suede, suede uye dehwe, etc.
Dehwe remafuta rine huwandu hwakawanda hwesimba, akapfava uye akapfava, extensibility uye yakanaka mhepo permeability, kudzivirira mvura, yakaoma invariance. Asi kana yakaoma yakachena rudzi urwu rwezvigadzirwa zvematehwe, nekuda kweiyo yakaoma yekuchenesa solvent degreasing kugona kwakasimba, zvishoma kusangwarira, ndiko kuumba musiyano wakakosha weruvara. Izvi zvinofanirwa kunyatsodzorwa kutonhora kweiyo yakaoma yekuchenesa solvent (kunyanya tetrachlorethylene) uye maitiro ekushanda akakodzera.
Oiri nemafuta idehwe rakasvibira, chitarisiko, embellish inonzwa yakasimba, nemubato dhonza dehwe zvinyoro nyoro, ruvara runova rusina kudzika, ndiwo musiyano pakati pemafuta ematehwe mapfupi nzira. Oiri yakakamurwa kuita dehwe rinopenya, mafuta suede uye nubuck dehwe, etc.
Mafuta anoshandiswa mumhando dzese dzemhando yepamusoro-giredhi yeganda zvigadzirwa kugadzira.
Tevedzera kufambira mberi kwesainzi uye tekinoroji uye kuvandudzwa kweindasitiri yematehwe, marudzi ese ematehwe uye ekutevedzera ematehwe zvigadzirwa zvinomera. Setsika yekuchenesa gadziriso retouching kuchengetedza kudiwa kwekutengeserana isu ticharatidza indasitiri mumakore ese marudzi ese ematehwe uye ekutevedzera ematehwe chigadzirwa sumo pfupi seinotevera..
(1) iyo napa dehwe
Napa kududzira muChirungu kubva kuNAPPA, zvinoreva kubata zvinopfuura aniline dehwe rakapfava NAPPA dehwe.
(2) mhou dehwe
“Cow” kwanga kuri kuturikira kwechiRungu kweNUBUCK, zvinoreva zviyo kuburikidza nekurasa kwekukwenenzverwa is suede dehwe.
(3) iyo microfiber dehwe
Sarudza kupfuura superfiber machira asiri akarukwa ane kusimba kwepamusoro, yakagadzirwa kubva kune sparse network kutanga, wozoita coating. Fiber network senge mune yakasimbiswa simende zvigadzirwa, saka dzimwe nguva ona fibrous material. Mumwe munhu anenge ari pauriri hwechipiri ganda matatu akaturikidzana eganda mushure mekunge katatu kana kashanu achipfekedzwa, embossing kana isina kugadzirwa nematehwe kana microfiber embossing yematehwe. Zvimwe, sarudza zvimwe rabha uye epurasitiki zvinhu, thermoforming, embossed, colored, zvakare vamwe vanhu vanonzi microfiber dehwe.
(4) yedehwe
Sarudza muchina kuruka zvinhu ita akarukwa machira, machira akarukwa kana asina kurukwa, pfapfaidza polyurethane (PU) resin zvinhu, saka rudzi urwu rwematehwe runodaidzwawo kuti PU dehwe. Idzi simba rematehwe, kupfeka kuramba, elasticity, kupfava, mhepo permeability, comfortable, uye kugadzikana kwemabasa akasiyana-siyana, simulation, etc., dzaive dzepamusoro pane dzematehwe ekugadzira, dehwe rekugadzira, iyo inoshandiswa zvakanyanya.
(5) dehwe rekugadzira
Sarudza jira rakarukwa, jira rakarukwa uye jira risiri rakarukwa semucheka wepasi, kumwaya PVC (PE) pane data rayo; Vamwe vachawedzera adhesive, wakaputsika musoro weganda wakakuvadzwa kusanganisa zvakaenzana mushure mekukanya kuumba embossing, kusarudzwa kwe resin uye dhayi, rudzi urwu rwedehwe rinonzi artificial leather.
(6) nzira, kumucheto bead, pendi
Kirasi iyi ihombe yakagadziriswa zviyo dehwe, kana kusarudza 2 kana matatu akaturikidzana eganda, leather coating thicker polyurethane coating. Misiyano yemhando nhatu dzematehwe ndeye:, nekupesana, kupenya kwepfuma kuve kwakaderera, penda kupenya kwepamusoro; Pedal soft case kuenzanisa, pfuma kuve yakapfava, patent yeganda rakaoma. Pasinei nekupenya kuchiri nyoro pedal, anovhura edge bead aripakati. Rudzi urwu rweganda rinoshandiswa mukugadzira shangu dzematehwe.
(7) bhurashi ruvara rweganda (kaviri ruvara)
Rudzi rweganda, chiedza chekumashure, kupfekedza kwayo pane isina kuenzana rima fomu musiyano mugumisiro, Mask anopisa mwenje wewakisi wemvura yakanamwa zvakare. Nekuti iyo yakasviba ruvara inowanikwa craft brush kana kupukuta kure, saka inonzi bhurashi ruvara rweganda.
(8) dehwe rakatsva
Inonziwo wakisi yakazara zviyo dehwe, hapana coating layer musiyano weakazara zviyo dehwe. Pedal mushure mekudhaya kurapwa, kupfekedza jira rekushisa kwakanyanya kuchinja ruvara pa “kenduru inopfuta”, inopa ruvara rwakasiyana.
(9) classical shadow
Iyo inonzi classical shadow, kureva kushandiswa kwepedal adsorption kugona musiyano, leather fiber padhayi adsorption huwandu hwemvura, nokudaro zvichipa kusiyana kwemavara pamatehwe, kuita mumvuri.
(10) ganda rakashambidzwa
Mvura-yakagezwa dehwe chiitiko chitsva mumakore achangopfuura kugadzira chigadzirwa chitsva, ndicho chinhu chinonyanya kuzivikanwa chekupfava kweganda uye kunyange kupfuura napa dehwe, dare uye textile fiber chigadzirwa. Yakagadzirwa nemhando iyi yembatya dzematehwe, vakasununguka uye nyore, vakasununguka uye nyore, hunhu hutsva, hunhu pamwe chete. Asi zvinofanirwa kucherechedzwa kuti rudzi urwu rwekugadzirisa chigadzirwa uye kugadzirisa, kwete chete yakachena uye kugadzirisa unyanzvi pamwe chete, uye inoda kusarudza yakakosha kemikari yematehwe, kana zvisina kudaro zvichakanganisa zvakanyanya basa rekuchengetedza rakachena.
